Rome via Brooklyn

790 words, 4 minute read

How can I be so tired? Is it possible to write this tired? Writing is a habit and a discipline. It happens when I slow my thinking down enough to craft it into words and sentences. To capture the interior and make it visible in text. I used to find writing painful, and now decades on of having a writing practice it gives me joy and a sense of peace.

So what was today like? 14 fabulous NYC-ers were tasked with navigating the Rome bus system to show up at a museum more than 30 minutes away from their disparate apartments. AND they succeeded. Everyone was on time.

I think the impromptu (i.e. improvised) ground floor walk and talk lecture/tour went well. We talked about fasces and backwards Cs for female enslavers and the sourcing of materials.

Upstairs the students fanned out and explored. A few still struggling with heat and jetlag sat and took it all in. Fair enough. I mingled, answered questions, and pointed things out one-to-one. I had been disappointed to do Montemartini before Villa Guilia because it didn’t fit with my chronological vision, but in someways it was the perfect first museum experience. We got to think about why things are displayed as they are, and the relationship of the past to the present or rather deep time to more recent past events. Lots of room to move and just experience the art without feeling ‘in the way’. The museum took us about 30 minutes less than anticipated and I could have made it faster if I had needed.

Upstairs, as we regrouped, we looked at the carpentry relief and the triumphal reliefs. We talked arcoliths and hunting for spectacle vs. hunting for ‘game’ and how the later could be symbolic of virility. We played hunt for traces of pigment on the statues and talked about ancient vs. modern esthetics. And back downstairs we did some sarcophagus 101.

See. If I start typing, the words come. They are already there. I just need to spin the fibers into a thread. Once the spinning starts it will continue with little effort.

Gift shop. Some down time outside. Then on to the restaurant. Which to my mind exceeded expectations. Decidedly not touristic or stereotypical. A v fun exploration of the meatball. The after lunch plan was a market. Bad Idea. I totally forgot that fruit and vegetable marketing is a morning activity. I offered instead an optional trip to Mercato di Testaccio which was supposed not yet closed. I’d not been but had heard good things. All the real food stalls were closed and there were many places to get bites to eat and a few apparel shops. I realize the markets I have in my mind’s eye are not in touristic districts but further out. I will need to do some scouting and find one to include next year. The students seem enthusiastic about marketing of all sorts and I’ve supplied them with lists to explore on their own.

I need to put less in each day. This is clear. We’ll see how tomorrow goes. We have a split day: Tiber side temples in the morning, then 4 pm at the Villa Guila.

I find myself looking forward to Thursday. “Just” the Capitoline in the morning, done by lunch. I think I need to ensure there are more days like that. less is more. The students have their own desires to explore and experience the city in their own ways. I want that to happen. The serendipity is the best.

I’m also thinking fondly of past trips 20 years ago with now full grown up professionals who were then my students. I’m so grateful to those yesteryear students for creating memories so rich and deep I’m finally doing it again, anew. With WhatsApp! It’s a revelation for this type of group travel. And google maps! and all the other navigation sites! It’s like I’m living in the future, I guess I am. The future is genius.

While of course I cook myself pasta. Woman cannot live on pasta alone. I figured it might be good to show some of the simple meals for one I prepare (open) from local supermarket provisions.

Left: micro greens from a bag, 1/2 a can of drained lentils, 1/2 a jar of seasoned artichokes with some of the oil from the jar as dressing.

Right: pre-prepared chicory (bitter greens – I added salt), fresh anchovies in vinegar and oil, and whole wheat savory biscuits called tarelli.

Each set of ingredients provided enough for two meals. Not the cheapest options but far cheaper than eating out.

Bonus! We have artists in the group! I ‘caught’ them drawing at lunch! So beautiful.