Rome via Brooklyn

DOUBLE. 814 Words, 4 Minutes.

I arrived at St. Peter’s Basilica 15 minutes before my allotted time (the email recommended 45 but I like to live dangerously). The line appeared insurmountable, but I made my way through it fairly quickly and was on my way to the grottoes. 

Throughout my visits to the four Papal Basilicas in Rome, I have done little to no research beforehand. This was especially true of St. Peter’s. As I walked through the grottoes I saw tombs of past popes, including Pope Benedict XVI, the Pope throughout much of my childhood. I also learned St. Peter’s serves as a monument to the papacy itself, and thus contains the tombs of many popes; it’s fitting, I probably should have guessed. As I listened through the audioguide I learned that the tomb of St. Peter was ahead. Having seen St. Paul’s tomb yesterday, this was a wonderful and spiritually impactful way to close my basilica-hopping.

After this, I climbed the stairs out of the grottoes and into the church itself, where I was greeted with the baldachin designed by Bernini. Many of his works adorn this church, including the Chair of Saint Peter in the very front. Once I’d seen these, I began to walk down the side left of the nave. To describe all of St. Peter’s would be superfluous, so I will stick to the most personally impactful elements of it. 

The Altar of St. Gregory the Great was of particular interest. He is a Doctor of the Church and my confirmation saint. I chose him because, when I was asked to choose, I repeatedly saw his name pop up in various places; online, school texts, etc. I took it as a sign. However, since then (a decade ago, woof), I’ve been searching for the meaning behind my choice, if any. He is the patron saint of musicians, singers, students, and teachers. While I have dabbled in musicianship before, I have never seen it as my calling. Perhaps a musical, rhythmic quality to my filmmaking could be achieved through his guidance? I am an editor, and rhythm is a strong factor in that craft. Obviously, I am also a student and quite enjoy learning. Perhaps this trait could be shaped with his intercession? I’m not sure, however, seeing his tomb has convinced me to dig deeper into his life and writings.

After this, I attended a Mass at the front of the church. While it was completely in Italian, I was able to pick up on some of it based on my knowledge of the English Mass and of Latin.

Once it had ended, I walked out of the church to enter back through the Holy Doors, completing my mission to walk through all four. I then saw Michelangelo’s Pieta. It was even more stunning and beautiful in person. The marble glistening under the lights, Christ’s frail, bare form contrasted by the Virgin’s sturdy posture and layers of rumpling clothes. Not far off was St. John Paul II’s tomb.

The other things that most struck me were more general. The maintained shock of walking through multiple millennia worth of history never wears off and was strongly present here, perhaps most obviously in the tomb of Peter being so close to the tomb of Benedict XVI. You can also see tombs of popes from the 4th century next to tombs of 18th-century royalty. I found this very interesting.

An aspect of all this Catholic tourism that has been hard to stomach is the capitalistic tendencies of the Church. In one of the basilicas, lined with images of Saints celebrated for their poverty and humility, you can buy Swarovski rosaries for €1000. They are beautiful, that is undeniable, but the existence of them seems to distract from the intentions and history of the prayer itself. And let’s be honest, how much of the appeal of such an expensive rosary is personal, and how much is braggadocios display? It is easier to regard the ornateness of the expensive churches themselves as giving glory to the Creator, but is gaudy personal prayer not expressly condemned in the Bible?

Coin-operated lights to see art, $40 museum tickets; these things may make sense in smaller, poorer dioceses, but here? Pope Francis’ attempt to underline the humble ambitions of the Faith makes all the more sense in Vatican City. 

Alright, rant over. I had a wonderful, fulfilling time visiting St. Peter’s. It is truly one of the most beautiful places I have ever been. After my visit, I went to the gift shops and bought medals, magnets, and Holy Water. Necessary purchases, my fridge is going to look like a mosaic after this trip. Next, I went to the burger chain next to my apartment. It was disappointing, certainly not the St. Peter’s of burgers. It did make me extremely tired, however, and I fell asleep when I got home.